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The CorkPopper LocaPour Project: What to Eat with the 2008 Cowan Cellars Bennett Valley Drystack Vineyard Syrah

14 Feb

Though December 2010 was technically Bennett Valley’s month in the CorkPopper LocaPour Project, it took me some time (what with the holidays and my crazy day job and all) to get my act together and (1) gather all the Bennett Valley wine I wanted to include, (2) actually cook a proper CorkPopper Dinner, and (3) find time to write about it.  It may be a month and a half late, but here it is – the final installment about Bennett Valley in the CorkPopper LocaPour Project.  Consider it my Valentine’s Day gift to all of you.

I’ve mentioned before that when I had the pleasure of travelling to Bennett Valley for the Westerhold Family Vineyard 2010 harvest, I was lucky enough to spend time not only with the Westerholds, but also their winemaker, Russell Bevan, and another local winemaker, Jim Cowan of Cowan Cellars.  It was Jim and me that helped to barrel Russell’s Oakville Cabernet Sauvignon.  And at the harvest dinner I cooked for everyone that night, Jim was kind enough to share with us a bottle of his 2008 Drystack Vineyard Bennett Valley Syrah, a big, bold wine with Syrah’s typical dark fruit and pepper but also some intriguing notes of smoke, rich soil, and dried fruit that distinguish it from many versions of the varietal, which can often present as syrupy or jammy.  I asked Jim if he could send me a bottle so that I could cook a dinner around it, and he was kind enough to do so,* along with the 2007 and 2009 vintages as well.**  Thanks Jim!

I knew I needed a fairly decadent meal to stand up to the brooding richness of the 2008 Cowan Cellars Drystack Vineyard Bennett Valley Syrah, so I opted for one of my favorite proteins – rack of lamb.  My regular followers are probably rolling their eyes right now, saying, “Rack of lamb again?”  But while I admit that I cook an awful lot of rack of lamb, I encourage you all to continue reading, as this dish is something special.***  Lamb has a unique flavor that works well with assertive wines such as this one, and, although making a Syrah sauce might seem like a no-brainer pairing, the addition of the figs brings out the wine’s notes of dried dark fruit and helps mellow out some of the earthiness.  Served atop mashed potatoes laced with creamy triple-cream Brie and studded with crispy shallots, this is truly a special occasion type of meal.****

Herb-Crusted Rack of Lamb with Syrah-Fig Sauce

Serves 4

Ingredients for the Sauce:

  • 1 tablespoon grapeseed oil
  • 1 large bone-in lamb chop (about 1.5 pounds), cut into about 2-inch pieces
  • 1 large yellow onion, roughly chopped (about 2 cups)
  • 2 large shallots, roughly chopped (about 1 cup)
  • 1 large carrot, roughly chopped (about 1 cup)
  • 4-5 large garlic cloves, roughly chopped (about 3 tablespoons)
  • 1 heaping tablespoon dried herbes de Provence
  • Freshly ground pepper
  • Sea salt
  • 1 bottle of Syrah
  • 3 cups low-sodium chicken broth
  • 1 1/2 cups dried Mission figs, sliced in half
  • 1 tablespoon unsalted butter at room temperature
  • 2 teaspoons all-purpose flour

Ingredients for the Lamb:

  • 2 racks of lamb, frenched and trimmed of excess fat (each rack should come with 8 riblets)
  • Freshly ground pepper
  • Sea salt
  • 1/2 cup finely chopped fresh Italian parsley
  • 1/2 cup finely chopped fresh thyme
  • 1/2 cup finely chopped fresh rosemary
  • 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil plus an additional 2 tablespoons for searing the meat

Preparation for the sauce:

Heat the grapeseed oil in a large heavy pot over medium heat.  Add the lamb pieces and brown on all sides.  Remove the lamb pieces to a bowl and then add to the pot the onion, shallot, carrot, garlic, and dried herbs.  Season with about 1 teaspoon salt and 1/2 teaspoon pepper.  Saute until the vegetables are soft and starting to brown.  Add 1 cup of the figs, the wine, the broth, and the reserved lamb (along with any accumulated juices).  Bring the mixture to a boil and then reduce the heat to low.  Simmer uncovered until the liquid has reduced by half, about 2 hours.

Using a fine mesh sieve or colander, strain the sauce into a large bowl, pressing on the solids to get as much of the liquid out as possible.  Spoon off any fat from the surface of the sauce and return it to the pot.  Add the remaining figs and continue to simmer over low heat until the sauce has reduced to about 2 cups, about 45 minutes.  Make a paste with the butter and flour and then mix the paste into the sauce.  Continue to simmer, stirring constantly, until the sauce has thickened so that it coats the back of a wooden spoon, about 2 minutes.  Season with additional salt and pepper to taste.  (Note: The sauce can be prepared a day ahead.  Just cover, chill, and rewarm before serving.)

Preparation for the lamb:

Season the lamb fairly generously with salt and pepper.  In a medium bowl, combine the fresh herbs and 2-3 tablespoons olive oil.  Firmly press the herb mixture onto the lamb, covering all of the meat.

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees with a rack in the center of the oven.  Heat 2-3 tablespoons olive oil in a large cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat.  Add one of the lamb racks to the skillet, meaty side down, to sear.  You should start to see a nice brown crust forming.  Flip the rack over after about 3 minutes and sear the other side, leaving it for about 2 minutes.  Repeat with the second rack.

Arrange both lamb racks together in the skillet, meat side up.  Place the entire skillet in the oven and roast about 20-25 minutes or until a meat thermometer registers 135 degrees for medium-rare.  Remove the lamb racks to a cutting board and cover them with foil for about 15 minutes.  Slice the rack into individual riblets and arrange atop of some creamy Brie and Crispy Shallot Mashed Potatoes (recipe below).  Drizzle with the Syrah-Fig Sauce and enjoy.

Brie and Crispy Shallot Mashed Potatoes

Serves 4

Ingredients:

  • 3-4 large Russett potatoes, peeled and cut into 2-inch pieces
  • 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
  • 2 large shallots, thinly sliced
  • 4 ounces St. Andre (or other triple-cream Brie cheese) at room temperature
  • 2 tablespoons unsalted butter at room temperature
  • 1/2 cup milk (or if you want to be really devilish, heavy cream)
  • Freshly ground pepper and sea salt to taste

Preparation:

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil.  Add the potatoes and boil until soft, about 20 minutes.

Heat the oil in a medium non-stick pan over medium-high heat.  Add the shallots and sauté until crispy brown, about 15 minutes, stirring occasionally so that they do not burn.

Drain the potatoes and return them to the pot.  Mash the potatoes with a masher until they have the desired consistency (some people insist upon perfectly smooth mashed potatoes while others like some chunks).  Add the cheese, butter, and milk and stir to combine.  Season to taste with salt and pepper.  Add the shallots just before serving so that they remain crispy.

Cheers!!

* Disclosure: I received this wine as a sample.

** The 2007 vintage is not available for sale to the public, so I’ll be saving that one for myself.  As for the 2009, Jim recommended that it be given some time in the bottle, and, though I am not known for my self-restraint when it comes to wine, I’ll be doing my best to cellar that one for a couple of years.

*** As is often the case with special dishes, this one takes some time, so please plan ahead if you want to give it a go yourself.  You should give yourself at least 3-4 hours to get the sauce right.

**** J and I were lucky enough to share it with LoSo and JSo, who are expecting BabySo this summer.

 
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Posted in 4 Corks Popped, 4.5 Corked Forks, 4.5 Forks, Bennett Valley, California, CorkPopper LocaPour Project, Cowan Cellars, Food Porn, Sonoma, Syrah, recipes, red wine, wine pairing

 

CorkPopper LocaPour Project: What to Eat with the 2009 Frostwatch “Kismet” Sauvignon Blanc

17 Jan

J and I recently ate our way through four days on the beautiful island of Isla Mujeres, just off the coast of Cancun.  Perfectly melted queso fundido with crispy chorizo, ceviche so perfectly fresh it’s like manna from heaven, whole grilled fish straight from the charcoal grill to our plates, skin still crackling, and massive amounts of habanero salsa so spicy I had tears running down my cheeks.  Amazing.  But LOTS of Mexican….

So, when we returned to LA after our all-too-short vacation, J and I were both more than ready to trade in our margaritas and queso fundido for a crisp glass of white wine and some different ethnic flavors… Our solution?  A 2009 Frostwatch “Kismet” Sauvignon Blanc ($18.99 from K&L Wine Merchants) from Bennett Valley paired with Fresh Linguine with Spicy Coconut Crab Sauce.  The Kismet Sauv Blanc is crisp, with fantastic notes of citrus and a pleasant minerality that just screams for shellfish.  Done and done.

Fresh Linguine with Spicy Coconut Crab Sauce

Serves 2

Ingredients:
Grapeseed oil
2 tablespoons finely minced fresh garlic
2 tablespoons finely minced fresh ginger
1 red jalapeno chile (or other red chile), minced, with seeds
2 scallions, chopped
Freshly ground pepper and sea salt
1 1/2 cups unsweetened coconut milk
6 ounces fresh Dungeness crab meat
Juice from two limes
8 ounces fresh linguine (I made my own, but you can find fresh pasta at all major grocery stores these days)
1 cup tightly packed cilantro leaves
Lime wedges for garnish

Preparation:
In a large non-stick skillet, heat about 1 tablespoon grapeseed oil over medium-high heat.  Add the garlic and ginger and saute until fragrant but not brown, about 2 minutes.  Add the chile and half of the scallions.  Season with a pinch of salt and pepper and cook for about 3 minutes.  Add the coconut milk.  Bring to a boil and then lower heat to medium.  Allow the coconut milk to reduce by half, stirring occasionally.  Add the crab meat and lime juice.  Season to taste with salt and pepper.

While the sauce is reducing, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil.  Add the pasta and cook until just al dente.  Drain (don’t rinse!) the pasta and return it to the non-stick skillet.  Add some of the sauce to the pasta and toss to coat.  Divide the pasta between two large pasta bowls and top with additional sauce and a generous handful of cilantro leaves.  Serve with lime wedges.

Cheers and buon appetito!!

 
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Posted in 4 Corked Forks, 4 Corks Popped, 4 Forks, Bennett Valley, California, CorkPopper LocaPour Project, Food Porn, Frostwatch, fresh pasta, recipes, sauvignon blanc

 

The CorkPopper LocaPour Project: What to Eat with the 2007 Westerhold Family Syrah

17 Jan

There are few things in life more comforting and perfectly delicious on a rainy day than fresh pasta topped with a hearty sauce that has been simmering away for hours on the stove.  So, when it came time to develop a recipe around the 2007 Westerhold Family Syrah, I knew fresh pasta was in the cards.  The 2007 Westerhold Syrah ($42 suggested retail), with its spicy blackberry and boysenberry notes and herbal undertones that just beg for a dish as rich as it is.  Enter my Garlic and Herb Tagliatelle with Pork and Beef Ragu.

Serves 4

Ragu Ingredients:
3/4 pound pork butt, cut into 1 1/2 to 2 inch cubes
3/4 pound beef shoulder, cut into 1 1/2 to 2 inch cubes
Freshly ground pepper and sea salt
All-purpose flour
1/4 pound pancetta, cut into 1/2 inch cubes
Extra virgin olive oil
1 large yellow onion, chopped
5-6 garlic cloves, minced
1 large carrot, finely chopped
1 celery stalk, finely chopped
1 tablespoon minced fresh thyme
1 tablespoon minced fresh rosemary
1 28-ounce can crushed tomatoes
1/2 bottle dry red wine (Syrah would be best)
1/3 cup chopped Italian parsley
Freshly grated Parmiggiano Reggiano cheese for serving

Pasta Ingredients:
2 cups all-purpose flour
2 eggs plus 1 egg yolk (these should be at room temperature)
2 tablespoons olive oil
1/2 teaspoon salt
3 garlic cloves
1/2 cup minced herbs such as thyme and rosemary

Preparation for the Ragu:
Season the meat with salt and pepper and lightly dust with flour.  Heat 1-2 tablespoons olive oil in a large heavy-bottom pot.  Add the meat and sear on all sides.  Remove to a bowl once seared.  Add the pancetta to the pot and cook until the fat has rendered but the pancetta is not yet crispy.  Remove the pancetta and set aside.  Add the onion, garlic, carrot, celery and herbs to the pot and season with 1/2 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon pepper.  Cook until the vegetables are soft.  Add the meat and pancetta back to the pot, followed by the tomatoes and wine.  Bring to a boil and then lower the heat and simmer for about 2 hours, stirring occasionally.  Start pulling the meat apart with a fork after about an hour.  Sprinkle with parsley and cheese before serving.

Preparation for the pasta:
Using a mortar and pestle or a knife, mash the garlic cloves together with a pinch of salt to create a paste.

Sift the flour onto a clean work surface (countertop or large cutting board) in a mound.  Make a hollow in the middle of the mound.  Add the eggs and egg yolk, the olive oil, the garlic paste, the herbs and the salt in the hollow.  Using a fork, mix the ingredients in the hollow together and then gradually start to mix in the flour from the inner edge of the hollow.  Once the mixture in the hollow becomes viscous rather than runny, use your hands to work the remaining flour into the mixture.  If all of the flour doesn’t get absorbed, add a small amount of water.  Continue to work the dough with the heels of your hands, kneading until the dough is firm but slightly elastic and all of the ingredients have been fully incorporated.

Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and allow to rest about an hour.

Take a golf ball-sized piece of dough and wrap the remaining dough in the plastic wrap so that it doesn’t dry out.  Using a pasta roller (or Kitchenaid pasta attachment or rolling pin), roll out the piece of dough to your desired thickness.  Then, with a knife, cut the dough into wide ribbon noodles about 1 1/2 to 2 inches wide.  Repeat until you’ve used all of the pasta dough.

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil.  Cook the pasta until it just floats to the surface, about 2 minutes.

Toss the cooked pasta together with some of the sauce in order to coat the noodles.  Place equal amounts of the noodles in large pasta bowls and top with more sauce.  Sprinkle with fresh parsley and cheese.

Cheers and buon appetito!!

 
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Posted in 4.5 Corked Forks, 4.5 Corks Popped, 4.5 Forks, Bennett Valley, California, CorkPopper LocaPour Project, Food Porn, Syrah, Westerhold Family Vineyard, fresh pasta

 

My First Crush: Westerhold Family Vineyards 2010 Harvest

09 Dec

I woke well before dawn on that cold early November morning, tired but giddy with anticipation.  I’d been waiting weeks for this day to come, reading anxiously the news from the wine blogosphere as vineyard owners in other parts of the state began picking and reporting on what was coming off of their vines.  I dressed quickly, not caring much what I looked like, as I was about to go trudge around in the vineyard mud, and grabbed my camera.  Let the day begin, I thought.

As the Autumn sun rose slowly over the Sonoma Mountains, it illuminated, seemingly from within, the layer of coastal fog resting along the sloping hillsides of the Westerhold Family Vineyard.*

The Westerhold Family

Yours truly at the Westerhold Family Vineyard

Not the greatest light for photographs, I thought, but I’d make do.  Though muted somewhat by the gray mist, the colors of the vines began to appear – the vibrant orange and lemon yellow leaves protecting the inky, the almost black Syrah grapes as they spent their last moments on the vine….

the knotted acorn-colored vines stretching out before me until they disappeared down the hill, the giant oak trees in the distance mere shadows still hidden by the fog.

With this first light, the vineyard workers began to pick, moving with ruthless efficiency as they filled tub after tub with ripe black fruit.

John Westerhold, the vineyard owner, and Russel Bevan (of Bevan Cellars), the winemaker, looked on, examining the fruit as it came in, tasting the occasional berry.  Russell turned to me and asked if I brought any shorts.  Shorts?  Early November in Sonoma isn’t exactly beach weather, mind you, so I was a bit stumped by the question.  “Well,” he asked, “don’t you want to stomp?”  Stomp!?!?  “Are you kidding?” I asked.  “OF COURSE I want to stomp!!!”  I ran back up the hill to the house and grabbed my pajama shorts, though if I hadn’t brought any I probably would have just run around in my underwear.  I was that excited.  I ran back outside to get a few last shots…

And before I knew it, and before the fog had burned off, the workers had cleared all of the grapes from the vines, and we were off to the winery, a local community crush and winemaking facility about 20 minutes away.

We arrived at the winery, a warehouse-like facility in Santa Rosa, and John showed me around.  We first walked into the crush room filled with giant conveyor belts, presses, and stainless steel tanks, and that damn forklift in whose way I kept getting.  (Sorry!)

Off the main room was a kitchen and a small laboratory with devices for measuring Ph levels and whatnot (lots of chemistry involved in winemaking, mind you).

As we walked into the next room, which was climate-controlled (read: chilly) and filled with more of those giant white tubs filled with grapes and their juice going through the first stage of fermentation, I was again struck by the fantastic smells found in a working winery.  That smell, though like nothing else I can think of, is the actual smell of yeast breaking down sugar into alcohol.  Fantastic.  I stopped and chatted with a winery worker who was pushing the solids down into the juices of one of the tubs in order to keep them wet and taking various measurements in the process (more chemistry….).

Passing through this room, we moved next into the barrel room, also climate-controlled (read: also chilly) and lined with rows and rows of oak barrel racks, the barrels filled with aging wine that will eventually work its way into bottles.  So beautiful.

This visit, of course, wasn’t just about getting a tour.  It was about the Westerhold Syrah, so we worked our way back to the first room, where the preparation was already underway for the next step of the process – the crush. Giant conveyor belts were moved into place, tools and tubs sterilized, and, last but not least, playlist selected and beer put on dry ice to chill.  Priorities, people.

We were the first team to arrive at the winery that morning, so as soon as the grapes were weighed and the machinery moved into place, my feet were cleaned….

and I hopped into a giant white plastic tub, ready to do some stomping.  The first round of grapes was dumped into a metal box of sorts,** from which the grape clusters were steadily raked onto the first conveyor belt…

and up into another metal contraption that separated the berries from the stems, shooting the berries onto a second conveyor belt where a row of people picked out any remaining stems, bugs or moldy berries before the grapes fell off the end of the conveyor and into my white tub.  It was there where, for the next several hours, I stomped away, my feet turning an interesting shade of fuschia.

I was having the time of my life.  And yes, aside from the fact that I didn’t fall down in the grapes, I was totally like Lucy.

With the Westerhold Syrah initial crush now finished (the wine was to spend a period of time in contact with the skins before going through a machine crush process that would separate the skins from the juice), we ordered some lunch and sat down to a vertical tasting of the 2007 and 2008 Westerhold Syrah so that John and Russell could prepare some tasting notes.

The 2007 vintage, with its ripe yet balanced fruit and perfectly round tannins, recently won the Hospice du Rhone Syrah Shootout, and although the 2008 needs a bit more time in the bottle, it has serious potential as well.  And while we were at it, Russell busted out a bottle of his 2006 Bevan Cellars Hanna’s Syrah (made from the Westerhold grapes, this was the biggest, chewiest wine of the day – delicious but no shrinking violet, to be sure).

Then, as if that weren’t enough, we also did some barrel tasting from the Westerhold 2009 vintage, which will be bottled early next year.

Though my day at the winery could easily have been over at this point, Russell asked if I wanted to stick around to see the barreling process.  Um, yes please!  Jim Cowan, another local winemaker (Cowan Cellars), showed me how to control the spigot on the hose connected to the stainless steel tank holding Russel’s 2010 Oakville Cabernet Sauvignon, and we let loose on the first several of Russell’s French oak barrels.

Here’s where I wish that the technology existed to capture and share a smell because the aroma coming out of the hole in the top of that first barrel as that lightly fermented juice hit that new French oak for the first time was like nothing I have ever experienced.  Indeed, I don’t even know how to describe except to say that it is, quite possibly, my new favorite smell.

As the majority of the naturally pressed juice in the tank dwindled, it was time for Russell to hop in the tank and shovel out the remaining solids.  Though fun, this step in the process is actually somewhat dangerous, as the carbon dioxide levels in those tanks from the fermentation process are quite high and can potentially cause the person doing the shoveling to pass out.  Russell didn’t waste any time getting in, though…

and he had that tank shoveled out and cleaned in no time.

The solids he shoveled out, of course, still had some juice in them, so they were sent to a giant press, where the remaining liquid was extracted, and the final barrels filled.

Jim and I tasted the free run juice that came straight out of the tank as well as the pressed juice, and the difference in sugar levels was remarkable (the pressed juice having more sugar).  I can’t wait to taste the final blend.

With our work done and the next winemaker (Kosta Browne’s Jemrose project) already taking over the workspace we had previously occupied, we left the winery and headed back to the Westerhold’s home.  I was so happy and grateful to have been able to participate in the day’s activities that I offered to make a harvest dinner for the Westerholds, Russell and his girlfriend and partner, and the Cowans.***  I decided on Roast Pork Tenderloin with Roasted Root Vegetables, along with, of course, a ridiculous amount of wine supplied by the various attendees.  The perfect end to a fantastic day….

They say you always remember your first love.  Love aside, I will always remember my first crush.

Cheers!

* As I’ve mentioned previously, in my other life I work with Sharon Westerhold (nee Bauman).

** Please forgive my lack of technical vocabulary here.  Because I was so busy actually helping, I wasn’t able to act the part of the journalist and take proper notes about the names of the various items of machinery.

*** I didn’t manage to take photos of the dinner, as I was a bit busy in the kitchen.

 
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Posted in Bennett Valley, Bevan Cellars, California, CorkPopper LocaPour Project, Cowan Cellars, Sonoma, Syrah, Westerhold Family Vineyard

 

CorkPopper LocaPour Project: Bennett Valley

07 Dec

Situated in the southeastern corner of Sonoma County, between Sonoma to the southeast and Santa Rosa to the northwest, lies the Bennett Valley American Viticultural Area (“AVA”), and the LocaPour Project’s second stop.  Having received its AVA designation from the U.S. government in late 2003, Bennett Valley is Sonoma County’s newest AVA.  Surrounded on three sides by the Sonoma Mountain Range, Bennett Valley acts as something of a catcher’s mitt for the cool ocean fog and breezes that wind their way inland from the Pacific Ocean.  This geographic arrangement is, not surprisingly, a boon to the Valley’s grapes, providing warm afternoons, cool nights, and a long, temperate growing season, all of which permits the grapes to ripen evenly and over a period of many months, without large spikes in sugar or acid levels.

The most common grape varieties grown in Bennett Valley include Merlot, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Syrah, with the area’s Syrah proving to be somewhat of a shining star of late.  I was recently lucky enough to travel to Bennett Valley and participate in the Westerhold Family Vineyard harvest and crush (a full report and photo barrage to follow), and although – as far as I’ve been able to tell – Bennett Valley currently has only one winery with a tasting room open to the public (Matanzas Creek, open daily), a number of other producers make Bennett Valley-designated wines, and many are well worth seeking out, including Westerhold Family Vineyards,* Bevan Cellars,** and Cowan Cellars, to name just a few.

Cheers!

* Disclosure: I work with Sharon Westerhold (nee Bauman) at my day job.  Lest you think this connection has tainted by objectivity, however, I would point out that the 2007 Westerhold Family Vineyard Syrah won this year’s Hospice du Rhone Syrah Shootout, an annual blind tasting wherein a small number of winemakers gather to rate Syrah made by their peers.

** Russell Bevan happens to be the winemaker at Westerhold Family Vineyard as well and, as such, was the talent behind the award-winning 2007 Westerhold Family Vineyard Syrah.

 
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Posted in Bennett Valley, California, CorkPopper LocaPour Project, Sonoma

 

The CorkPopper LocaPour Project: What to Eat with the 2005 Turtle Rock Cabernet Sauvignon

22 Nov

What do you do when a red wine makes you crave beef, blue cheese, sautéed mushrooms, pancetta and grilled onions?  You make a burger, of course!  And that is exactly what J and I made to pair with Malibu Family Wines’ 2005 Turtle Rock Cabernet Sauvignon, a big wine packed with lots and lots of red and dark fruit, a fair amount of baking spice (from the oak), and a kick of earthiness in the middle palate.  In other words, there is a lot going on with this wine, and it needs a meal with a lot going on as well. 

Enter my Blue Cheese/Portabella/Pancetta Burgers with Grilled Onion and Arugula.

Serves 4

Ingredients

  • 1 pound ground beef (with at least 10-15% fat)
  • 1 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons sea salt
  • 1 1/2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
  • 2 ounces pancetta, cubed
  • 1 large shallot, minced
  • 1 large garlic clove, minced
  • 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil, plus additional for the buns
  • 1 large portabella mushroom, minced
  • 3 ounces quality blue cheese, crumbled
  • 4 large slices (about 1/2 thick) red onion
  • 4 brioche hamburger buns, sliced in half
  • Dijon mustard (optional)
  • A handful of arugula leaves

 

Preparation

Preheat the grill to medium-high.

Place the beef in a large mixing bowl.  Add the pepper, salt, and balsamic vinegar, using your (clean) hands to mix.  (Be sure to wash your hands after touching the raw beef, however.) 

Heat a nonstick frying pan over medium-high heat.  Add the pancetta and fry until crispy.  Remove to a plate covered in paper towels to drain and cool.  Return the pan to the stove and add the shallot and garlic.  Sautee until translucent and fragrant, about 3-4 minutes.  Add the sautéed shallot and garlic to the beef mixture, and return the pan once again to the stove.  Add 1 tablespoon olive oil and the mushroom, sautéing until soft, about 4-5 minutes.  Season with a pinch of salt and pepper before transferring to the bowl with the beef.  Add the crispy pancetta to the beef, and, using your hands again, incorporate the shallot, garlic, mushroom, and pancetta.  Add the blue cheese and mix further, taking care to leave the blue cheese in relatively larger crumbles (about 1/4 inch) throughout the beef mixture.

Create four evenly-sized patties, each about 3 1/2 to 4 inches across, from the beef mixture, creating a shallow indentation in the center of each.  This will keep the patties from becoming too round when they cook.

Drizzle the cut sides of the buns with a bit of olive oil and sprinkle with some sea salt.  Do the same with the onion slices.

Place the beef patties on the grill and cook about 5-7 minutes on each side for medium.  Place the onion slices on the grill as well, grilling until caramelized on the outside, about 5 minutes each side.  Place the buns on the grill at the very end, grilling just long enough to give them a golden crust.

Remove everything from the grill.  Slather the buns with mustard, if desired, and top with the patty, some arugula leaves, and some grilled onion.  Serve with oven-baked sweet potato fries, and let all those crazy flavors in your burger play with all the crazy flavors in the 2005 Turtle Rock Cabernet Sauvignon.

Cheers!

 
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Posted in 4 Corked Forks, 4.5 Forks, Cabernet Sauvignon, California, CorkPopper LocaPour Project, Malibu, Malibu Family Wines, recipes, red wine

 

The CorkPopper LocaPour Project: What to Eat with the 2005 Rosenthal Meritage

17 Nov

Meritage (pronounced like “merit edge”), as some of you may know, is the proprietary term used to refer to American wines (both red and white) made in the Bordeaux style.  Red Meritage must be made from a blend of at least two of the following Bordeaux varietals: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Malbec, St. Macaire, Gros Verdot, or Carmenere, with no single grape comprising more than 90% of the blend.

The 2005 Rosenthal Meritage is a blend of Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot, all from the Rosenthal Estate in the Malibu-Newton Canyon AVA.  This wine has plenty of the dark fruit and dried flowers you expect in a Meritage, along with a generous amount of earthy spice that, surprisingly enough, had me craving  southeast Asian flavors like curry, cilantro, and mint.  The solution?

Curry-Rubbed Rack of Lamb with Cilantro-Mint Pesto and Curry-Lime Cauliflower.

Serves 2

Lamb Ingredients

  • 1 rack of lamb, frenched and trimmed
  • 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
  • 1 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
  • 1 teaspoon sea salt
  • 1 teaspoon curry powder

Pesto Ingredients

  • 1 cup packed fresh cilantro sprigs
  • 1/2 cup packed fresh mint leaves
  • 1/4 cup water
  • 1 (or 2 if you like it spicy!) serrano chile pepper, stemmed
  • 1/2 cup roughly chopped brown onion
  • 1 tablespoon sugar
  • Juice from 2 limes
  • Sea salt

Cauliflower Ingredients

  • 1 head cauliflower
  • Extra virgin olive oil
  • Freshly ground pepper
  • Sea salt
  • 1-2 teaspoons curry powder
  • Juice of 1 lime
  • 2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro

Preparation

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees.  Cut the cauliflower into bite-sized florets and place them in a large roasting pan.  Drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle with pepper, salt, and curry powder.  Toss to coat.  Roast for about 15 minutes, then stir and roast an additional 10-15 minutes, until lightly browned.  Remove the pan from the oven, drizzle with lime juice, and sprinkle with the chopped cilantro.  Toss to coat and serve.

While the cauliflower is roasting, preheat the grill to medium-high.  Rub the rack of lamb with a little olive oil and then sprinkle with the pepper, salt, and curry powder, massaging it all in with your fingers.  Grill for about 7-8 minutes, meaty side down, then flip over and grill another 5-7 minutes for medium-rare (about 135 degrees).  Remove the lamb from the grill and allow to rest at least 10 minutes so that the juices redistribute.

While the lamb is on the grill, blend all of the chutney ingredients together in a blender or food processor.

Slice the individual lamb ribs and serve topped with a bit of the chutney.

Cheers!

 
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Posted in 4 Corked Forks, 4 Forks, California, CorkPopper LocaPour Project, Malibu, Meritage, Rosenthal, recipes, red wine

 

The LocaPour Project: What to Eat with the 2008 Surfrider Sauvignon Blanc

15 Nov

While many expressions of Sauvignon Blanc are heavy on herbal or grassy notes, you occasionally come across one that exhibits other characteristics – citrus, apple, and sometimes, pear.  The 2008 Surfrider Sauvignon Blanc from Rosenthal Estates is just such a Sauvignon Blanc, and, when I tasted it, I knew I just had to develop a recipe to go with it.  Fish, of course, would factor large, but I wanted to focus on the crisp apple and juicy pear notes present in the wine as well.  Behold the result – Grilled Chilean Sea Bass over Creamy Polenta with Apple and Pear Chutney.

Serves 4

Ingredients

  • 2 Gala apples, peeled and cut in half, cores removed
  • 2 Bosc pears, peeled and cut half, cores removed
  • Juice of 1 lemon
  • 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
  • 1/2 teaspoon ground cloves
  • 2 teaspoons fresh thyme, minced
  • 1 small red onion, chopped (about 1/2 cup)
  • 1/3 cup white wine vinegar
  • 1 tablespoon sugar
  • 2 pounds Chilean Sea Bass (or other firm white fish), cut into 4 equal pieces
  • Extra virgin olive oil
  • Freshly ground pepper
  • Sea salt
  • 4 cups water
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • 1 cup polenta (not quick-cooking) (or 5 ounces yellow cornmeal)
  • 2 tablespoons unsalted butter

Preparation

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.  Toss the apple and pear halves in the lemon juice and sprinkle with the cinnamon, cloves, and 1 teaspoon of the thyme.  Roast on a baking sheet or in a roasting pan until the fruit is caramelized on the bottom.  Remove from the oven and allow to cool before cutting the fruit into 1/2 inch pieces.  In a small saucepan, mix the apple and pear mixture with the vinegar, the onion, and the rest of the thyme.  Heat the mixture over medium-low heat until just heated through, about 2 minutes.

In a medium saucepan, bring the water and salt to a boil.  Add the polenta in a thin stream, whisking as you do.  Cook over medium heat, whisking for about 2 minutes.  Reduce the heat to low and cover.  Stir every 10 minutes with a wooden spoon for a total of 45 minutes.  Remove the pan from the heat and whisk in the butter.  Cover until ready to serve, but no more than about 20 minutes (or the polenta will get hard.

Reheat the oven to a low temperature (about 200 degrees or less).  Place four plates in the oven to warm.

Pat the fish fillets dry with a paper towel and season lightly with salt and pepper.  Preheat the grill to medium and lightly oil the grill.  Gently place the fish on the grill, searing on the first side for about 2 minutes.  Flip the fillets over and sear another minute or so, until the meat is just translucent and flakes with a fork.

Remove the plates from the oven and spoon some polenta on each.  Place a fish fillet on top of the polenta on each plate, then top that with some of the apple and pear chutney.  Serve immediately.

Cheers,

 
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Posted in 4 Corked Forks, 4 Forks, California, CorkPopper LocaPour Project, Malibu, Surfrider, recipes, sauvignon blanc, white wine

 

A Perfect Los Angeles Daytrip: Wine Tasting in Malibu

12 Nov

As most of you probably know, I currently reside in the Los Angeles area (aka La La Land, Hollyweird, or Hell, according to some – the Land of Enchantment or Shangri-La to others), where I have a good day job, am near the beach, and have plenty of dining/drinking options in pretty much every direction.  I’m also only about two hours south of Santa Barbara wine country, where I first came to really LOVE wine as a student at University of California, Santa Barbara.  Two hours, however, in the life of a young professional, sometimes feels like an eternity (especially with Southern California traffic), so when I have a hankering for wine tasting but don’t have the time to make the trek north, I sometimes head up the Pacific Coast Highway (PCH) and into Los Angeles’ own little mini wine country in the Santa Monica Mountains just east of Malibu.

I took just such an excursion a few weeks ago when, on an uncharacteristically gloomy Saturday afternoon in Los Angeles, I dragged J, LoSo, and JSo up the coast and into the canyons for a picnic, some live music, and some wine at Malibu Family Wines and Rosenthal.  I spent the morning preparing our lunch, individual Apple, Bacon and Onion Galettes (recipe here), and we left my place around 12:30.

We rolled our windows down as we drove north up PCH, beachside homes whipping by on our left, the crisp, salty Autumn air waking our senses and making us just a tad bit hungry.  We passed the Malibu Colony, where the biggest celebrities hide out and try to keep us common folk from placing even a pinkie toe on “their beach,” and Pepperdine University.  A few miles more and we turned right Decker Canyon Road, which took us up, up, up in the Santa Monica Mountains toward our first destination – Malibu Family Wines.

Despite the gloomy weather, when we arrived, the parking lot was packed, and there were cars lined up along Mulholland Highway.  We found a place to park and grabbed our provisions – lunch was to happen before any serious tasting could begin.  We wandered into the winery’s great little outdoor picnic area, which was full of people enjoying the free live music (along with no shortage of Malibu Family wines, of course).  LoSo and I wandered up to the tasting room to buy a bottle of wine to go with our lunch while JSo and J found a table and unpacked the food.  LoSo and I settled on a bottle of the 2005 Semler Merlot ($26/bottle), one of the Semler wines that I knew from past experience is consistently tasty and sure to be a nice pairing with our lunch.  We wandered back to find J and JSo and enjoyed the music along with our still-warm galettes, some cheese, and our first wine of the day.  This is the life, right?

After finishing lunch, the four of us made our way to the tasting room, where we worked our way through the eight wines they were pouring that day – four from the Semler label and four from the Saddlerock label.  The winery’s Semler wines are produced from grapes grown in the Saddle Rock-Malibu AVA, whereas the Saddlerock wines are made from grapes sourced from elsewhere in California, including Santa Barbara and San Luis Obispo counties.

We started with the 2009 Semler Sauvignon Blanc, a nice light, refreshing white typical of the Sauvignon Blanc varietal, though not terribly complex, especially at $24/bottle.  The 2009 Saddlerock Chardonnay ($16/bottle) was likewise a bit flat, though it carried some melon notes that I liked (and J hated).  Next, we moved to the reds, starting with the 2007 Saddlerock Pinot Noir ($24/bottle), which J said tasted like Sweet Tarts, followed by the 2007 Saddlerock Cabernet Sauvignon ($20/bottle), which was clearly fermented in toasted oak barrels, as we all tasted a significant amount of vanilla and baking spice.

Switching over to a vertical tasting of the Semler Cabernets, we started with the 2005 Semler Cabernet Sauvignon ($29/bottle), which made us all think of a big bloody steak (in a good way, of course), indicating some pretty high iron levels in that vintage.  Next, we tried the 2004 Semler Cabernet Sauvignon ($29/bottle), which I knew J was going to hate as soon as I took a whiff.  The grapes in this wine were clearly a bit underripe when picked and pressed, leaving the wine with a somewhat “green” taste of bell pepper.  2004 was a cool year, I’m guessing….  Moving on, we tasted the 2002 Semler Cabernet Sauvignon ($32/bottle), which is made in a more Bordeaux-like style (with a larger blend of other grapes, though still at least 75% Cabernet Sauvignon).  LoSo seemed to like this one, although J and I had had about enough Semler Cab for one day.

Switching labels again, we tried the final Saddlerock wine, a 2008 Petite Sirah ($24/bottle), which was so dry it was almost chewy, though the finish fell off almost immediately upon swallowing, making me think that they needed to either abandon this grape or let it age far longer before sharing it with people.  Finally, our friendly tasting room staff pulled out a wine not actually on the tasting list, a 2005 Turtle Rock Cabernet Sauvignon, which the winery made in partnership with BevMo.  This was certainly the best Cabernet we’d tasted all day, with a nice balance of ripe fruit, acid, and tannin that was, frankly, missing in the others.  I bought a bottle for an upcoming CorkPopper Dinner, but, sadly, they were almost sold out, so I’m not sure that you’ll be able to find it anymore.

All in all, a decent round of wines with some more enjoyable than others, and virtually all at fairly reasonable prices.  And even if the wines aren’t making it into your wine cellar any time soon, the location and grounds certainly make this place worth an occasional visit.  Having finished the offerings at Malibu Family Wines, I packed up my purchases (the Semler Sauv Blanc and Merlot and the Turtle Rock Cab), and we loaded ourselves back into my little Prius to head back down the canyon toward the Rosenthal tasting room.

Rosenthal, which makes wines under both the Rosenthal and Surfrider labels, actually has two “locations.”  The first is the tasting room, which is open to the public and is located on PCH just south of Kanan-Dume Road.  The second is the estate, which is only accessible for special events and private tours.  I didn’t have enough foresight to schedule a private tour of the estate on this particular day, so we merry four instead just hit the tasting room on our way back down the coast.  A tiny little room with a small picnic area outside, the Rosenthal/Surfrider tasting room is just across PCH from the Pacific Ocean, and, if you can manage to drown out the sound of the cars whizzing by, is actually quite idyllic in many ways.  After descending from the cloudy canyon, moreover, the Rosenthal tasting room offered us a sunny spot to warm up again as well.

As with our Malibu Family Wines experience, we decided to try everything on the Rosenthal/Surfrider tasting list.  The Rosenthal wines are, as one might expect, made from grapes grown on the Rosenthal Estate, which just so happens to consist of the entire 250 acres of the Malibu-Newton Canyon AVA.  In other words, Rosenthal is the Malibu-Newton Canyon AVA.  The winery’s Surfrider wines, on the other hand, are mostly made from grapes sourced from elsewhere, and, along with the very California cool label art, a portion of the proceeds from the sale of Surfrider wines goes toward the charity of the same name.  (Check out the Surfrider Foundation here.)

We started our Rosenthal/Surfrider experience with the 2008 Surfrider Sauvignon Blanc ($19/bottle), which had really lively notes of pear that definitely piqued my interest and got me thinking about food (always a good sign).  Next, we tasted the 2008 Surfrider Chardonnay ($21/bottle), which is fermented and aged in stainless steel rather than oak, making it much less creamy (and much more refreshing) than many California Chardonnays.  The 2008 Rosenthal Chardonnay ($25/bottle), though aged in French oak, was likewise more fresh tasting than most California Chardonnay, with just a hint of vanilla to smooth out the bright fruit.

Moving on to the red selections, we started with the 2008 Surfrider Pinot Noir ($27/bottle), which was a bit flat and candy-like for us but could certainly be refreshing chilled a bit.  Next, we tasted the 2004 Rosenthal Cabernet Sauvignon ($39/bottle), a big step up in terms of body and depth when compared to the light Pinot Noir.  With lots of cedar and spice and dark, ripe berries, this wine needs food like a baby needs its mama.  Moving away from the single varietals, we next tried the 2005 Surfrider Red ($29/bottle), a Right Bank Bordeaux-like blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Petit Verdot from the Malibu-Newton Canyon AVA.  This wine was a bit oaky for my taste but was intriguing nonetheless, with lots of bright red fruit to help balance out the earthy sandalwood and vanilla.  Our final dry red offering was the 2005 Rosenthal Meritage, which, at $49/bottle, was the most expensive wine of the day but also, in many ways, the best.  Made from a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot, and Cabernet Franc, this wine has spice notes that I just love and dark ripe fruit that, together with the tannins and soft oak, linger on the palate for what feels like an eternity.  I’ve had trouble finding Meritage blends that I really think are worth drinking, so despite the price, I decided I needed a bottle.  Even the CorkPopper Budget needs to be flexible on occasion!  Finally, to end our day of tasting, we tried a sip of the 2005 Surfrider Red Dessert Wine ($12/bottle).  Though none of us are particularly huge fans of dessert wines in general, this was a nice offering, with just enough sugar to satisfy a sweet tooth.

I bought a few bottles (the Surfrider Sauv Blanc and Chardonnay and the Rosenthal Meritage), and, with our wine tasting finished, we piled once again into the Prius and hopped back on PCH and headed south toward home.  We passed the Santa Monica Pier, with the ferris wheel brightly lit against the now purple sky.  We’d been gone only a few hours, true, but when wine tasting, even a few hours can be enough to take you out of your rut and remind you that Los Angeles is not all smog and traffic but, in fact, has many wonderful things to offer…. all you have to do is look… and taste.

Cheers!

 
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Posted in California, CorkPopper LocaPour Project, Malibu, Malibu Family Wines, Rosenthal, Saddlerock, Semler, Surfrider

 

Malibu: The Home of Celebrities, Surfers, and … Winemakers??

10 Nov

Los Angeles from the air, with Malibu and the Santa Monica Mountains on the left. (Photo from iStockPhoto.)

Malibu, California has long been, in the imagination of the American public, primarily associated with enormous ocean-front homes built by Los Angeles elite as weekend getaways, jagged (if somewhat obstructed) California coastline, and, of course, the locale of Mel Gibson’s first major public meltdown.  Well, hold on to your surfboards, folks, ‘cause today’s Malibu has another offering – wine. 

 Malibu is actually home to not one but two official AVAs (American Viticultural Areas) – Malibu-Newton Canyon, established in 1996, and Saddle Rock-Malibu, established in 2006.  Malibu-Newton Canyon is a tiny AVA of just around 850 acres (with just 25 acres planted) and is, as far as I can tell, home to just one vineyard/winery – Rosenthal Estate and its two labels, Rosenthal and Surfrider.  (More on Rosenthal later.)  Saddle Rock-Malibu is slightly larger in overall size at about 2000 acres, but, according to the California Wine Institute, only about 80 acres are planted with vines, most notably by the folks at Malibu Family Wines, who make the Semler and Saddle Rock labels.  (More on Malibu Family Wines later as well.)  Both AVAs are located in the far western reaches of Los Angeles County just inland from the Pacific Ocean among the Santa Monica Mountains.  The primary grapes planted in Malibu-Newton Canyon include Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay, along with some Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot, while in Saddle Rock-Malibu you can also find some Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir.

Though the area’s wines are somewhat hit-or-miss, they are generally drinkable, and, I believe, will get better over time as the winemakers gain experience and hopefully find the perfect grapes and methods to capture what I can only imagine is Malibu’s unique terroir.

Stay tuned for more on Rosenthal Estates and Malibu Family Wines!

Cheers!

 
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Posted in California, CorkPopper LocaPour Project, Malibu

 
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